Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Back from the Galapagos

... but I think I would have been much happier if I had never had to come back. I had the most amazing several days sailing from island to island and exploring the wildlife that inspired Darwin´s theory of evolution. I hope that all of you guys get to go someday, because it was absolutely a once in a lifetime experience.

My first wildlife encounter in the Galapagos was on Santa Cruz, in a wildlife refuge for giant tortoises. Our guide, Gandhy, led us on a hike where we got to come within several inches of the giant tortoises... close enough to hear them sighing as they munched on the grass or lazed about in ponds trying to cool off from the weather. The tortoises really deserve their name, as well - they are pretty big. Big enough for a full-grown man to climb inside one of their shells... which Molly and I got to do. We probably could have fit the two of us in one, though we didn´t try.

After we experiences the tortoises we got to go into a lava tube, which was a kind of cave-like formation that had been created by lava flow when the islands were formed. Also pretty cool... but not as cool as the tortoises.

Over night, we set sail for Floreana, and when we woke up set out in a dingy for a morning hike, where we got to see some baby sharks and sting rays (I couldn´t get any pictures since they were in the water) and flamingos - not endemic to the island, but pretty nonetheless. That afternoon, I had my first snorkeling experience. I was nervous about swimming with sharks, which our guide had told us we´d find in the water, and so was hesitant to jump in... and what do you know: My first animal sighting, just moments after I jumped in the water, was three white-tipped sharks. Fortunately, they were several feet below me. If I had been eye-to-eye with sharks, I think it would have kept me from getting in the water afterwards. Fortunately, I got used to the sharks´presence, and even began to seek them out. I also got to see a sea turtle, golden rays, and sea lions playing in the water. It was a fabulous first snorkel. That evening we had a beautiful sunset and set sail for EspaƱola.

Our EspaƱola hike the next morning was absolutely incredible. When we landed on the island, we were greeted by dozens of sea lions - some of which were strewn across the very path we were to walk on. We even had a bit of a battle with an angry male sea lion who got in our way. As we stopped to take photos of the sea lions, we noticed the less conspicuous marine iguanas that were basking on the rocks amongst the sea lions, as well as several blue-footed boobies that posed for our cameras as we went along. We continued across the island (spotting some webbed albatrosses and Darwin´s famous finches along the way) until we came to a spectacular drop-off where we got to watch the albatrosses in flight. It was interesting to watch them take off... they literally have to hurl themselves off of the edge of the cliff to take flight. We sat for a while and watched before we returned to the ship for some afternoon snorkeling (more sea turtles, more rays). I think I could have stayed their for longer.

To be honest, the days are blurring together so I am not sure exactly what we did the next day... but at some point we sailed to San Cristobal and went to an interpretation center and spent some time in the town, went to Santa Fe to do more snorkeling and go on a hike where we got to see more sea lions and land iguanas, and did a lot more snorkeling. And of course, we saw more sea lions wherever we went. In town, lying on the sidewalks and on benches... on the beaches sunning themselves (I got to lay down in the middle of a big pile of them... I didn´t have my camera but another tourist took a picture and when she emails it to me I will put it up)... sea lions swimming up to us and imitating us and playing in the water. And of course we sailed and sunned... it was a spectacular time. I want to go back.

Another thing... I met a lot of other really great people on the boat who I am going to get to hang out with in Quito and who I may or may not run into in Peru. They range in age from about my age to about 60, and I love them all and have had a great time getting to know them over the next few days. The best part is, they are from all over the world, from Ireland to Australia, and so now if I am ever traveling in their part of the world I have a place to stay and a tour guide to show me the way!

I have posted pictures from the Galapagos (at least, some of them... not all of them yet) on my Piacasa website, and I´ve added a link to them below the link to the Ecuador pictures. Feel free to check them out... and prepare to be insanely jealous.

Hope all is well in the US.

Love to all.

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